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We
dip our leaves in PyroClay, a rare-earth mineral supplement
that maintains freshness and helps to prevent fungal diseases
(see http://www.greenair.com/pyro_clay.htm). Before you plant
each leaf, first add about half a cup (125 mL) of warm water
to the baggie with the leaf in it, and let the leaf soak in
it for about 5 min. Then blot the leaf dry and plant it as
you normally would. You can add a teaspoon of sugar dissolved
in water and soak them for a few hours or over night. If the
leaf is severely wilted it can often be revived by floating
the entire leaf in the bowl. A drop of Superthrive or Allegro
in the water seems to help but is not necessary. You can sprinkle
the leaf with cinnamon which seems to stop rot and fungus
problems.
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Cut
the petiole at a 45 degree angle about one to two inches below
the base of the leaf. If you are potting in soil, let them
harden off for 10 - 20 minutes before potting. We don't use
rooting powder which just encourages root growth and it will
take longer for babies to appear.
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You
can start leaves either in a potting mix (make sure it is
sterilized). Make it a little lighter by adding perlite -
about ¼ to ¾ mix. Do not plant the tip of the petiole too
deep. Leaves started this way may benefit from being placed
under a dome or in a plastic bag for a few weeks. We use zip
lock baggies.
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You
can also start leaves in water. Cover a yogurt container with
aluminium foil, poke a hole in the foil and stick the leaf
in. As soon as the tiny root hairs appear, pot it up (as above).
When planting only the tip of the petiole is placed beneath
the soil surface so that the developing plantlets can easily
make their way to the surface. Prop up the newly planted leaves
with plant sticks.
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Fertilize
the rooted leaves with diluted fertilizer. We recommend Schultz
African Violet Plant Food or RainGrow (both available from
Harborcrest Gardens). Once rooted the mother leaves can be
placed under lights. Babies will appear in 2 - 6 months and
should be ready to transplant in another two.
